Why I Don’t Wear Gel Nail Polish Anymore
I have super thin nails that break easily. Starting when I was in college and a lifeguard/swim instructor at my local YMCA, I wore two thin coats of hard gel for 20 years.
I stopped for two years in 2008. I was too busy being a mother of four active and exhausting children.
As many of you know, this was a huge mistake. I gave up the last bit of “me time”.
In 2010 discovered the online world of nails and nail art. I took up my love of nail polish again.
My Research
I spent a lot of time learning about nail care. Doug Schoon’s book, Nail Structure and Product Chemistry became my nail bible. It was the only piece of truth I could get my hands on.
Most of the nail care advice thrown around the internet is false, misleading, and some is actually damaging.
Doug’s book taught me that oil is very important to keeping nails strong yet flexible.
Since I’m allergic to almond oil, which seems to be in just about every cuticle oil, I created my own and began oiling my nails several times a day. They soaked up the oil like a sponge. It took three days for them to stop.
After four months, my nails were longer than they had ever been in my life.
When my husband lost his job of 13 years, I thought that some other girls on the planet might be interested in this oil, so Simply Simply Pure™ hydrating oil was born. Cory and I clung together to build our company—Bliss Kiss™.
Hard Gel vs. Soak-Off-Gel
During my daily, all-consuming studies of nail care, I learned about the new revolutionary product called soak-off-gels (SOG).
This new technology was a gel that dissolved in acetone. Hard gels are highly resistant to acetone.
Hard gels must be filed down to 50% of their thickness for maintenance fills, or filed off completely for removal.
It’s very difficult to file off the hard gel without touching the nail plate. The removal process can significantly thin the natural nail.
The new soak-off-gels were significantly less acetone resistant so they had the gloss and toughness of hard gel with easier solvency in acetone for removal.
This new technology was so popular that it seemed like every polish company was jumping on the bandwagon and creating their own version.
Since my nails were really long from my regular use of Simply Pure™ hydrating oil, I wanted to keep them that way. I decided to check out these new gels.
My Technique
My 20 years of experience taught me that polish bonds really well to gel. I thought SOG would be a great option without a permanent commitment.
Rather than doing the normal application process; one coat of basecoat gel, two coats of color gel, and one coat of topcoat gel, I chose to just apply just the base coat and topcoat as an overlay, and apply traditional polish over my gel.
Based on my experience with hard gel, and since I wasn’t changing a color, I decided to file the SOG to 50% thickness and then apply 2 new layers of clear gel.
This prevented me soaking in acetone every two weeks. I never completely removed the gel. I felt this was a perfect solution for me.
And it was . . . for about six months.
At the same time, I was photographing my nail art with a high-quality camera and I didn’t like seeing the gel growth line under my polish.
Also, since my gel was fairly thin, with each manicure change the gel would start to partially dissolve around my cuticle lines. I was reapplying the gel every week or two.
This was taking an additional hour out of my week above and beyond doing a normal manicure with nail art.
In January 2013, I decided to do my “Let’s Get Naked Challenge” with all of my customers.
This was my first time removing the gel following the manufacturer’s directions of using an orange wood stick to scrape the softened gel.
Most of the gel came off, but some of it didn’t. I continued to scrape at the hard bits, which created white spots in my nails. You can see this in the photo below.
Unknowingly, I had created the same damage that is happening in hundreds of thousands of salons around the world—all because nail professionals are “following the manufacturers instructions!”
No Scraping Allowed
Doug wrote an article—which I published here—showing his research about the damage that can occur when using any tool to “scrape” off the gel.
With Doug’s illuminating electron microscope pictures, the conclusion is simple—you should never use a tool to remove gel after it has softened with acetone.
I have read the instructions from many manufacturers—including CND Shellac, OPI Gel, Essie’s Gel, and Harmony’s Gelish.
All of them recommend scraping the gel off with an orange wood stick or a metal tool after it has softened.
I asked Doug about this discrepancy, since he always tells people to follow the manufacturers directions, but his research indicates that some of those recommendations are damaging. His response was that the manufacturers need to read his research. I totally agree.
Under The Microscope
Doug has taken electron microscopes showing the damage that even a simple orange wood stick can do.
When small white spots appear on the nail plate after removal of the UV nail color coatings (another name for gel), a likely reason is improper removal. Fortunately, the vast majority of this type of nail damage is completely avoidable.
How does the nail damage occur? Soaking the natural nail for even a few minutes in acetone or water will temporarily soften the surface making it temporarily more susceptible to damage from any implements that pry, push or force the remaining residual UV coating (gel) from the nail plate. Instead, a good rule to follow is, “use the utmost care for 60 minutes after immersing natural nails in any liquid for more than 60 seconds.” ~Doug Schoon
Aging Gel Is Not a Good Thing
The longer you wear a soak off gel, the harder the product becomes.
This means that gel that you have been wearing for two weeks is easier to remove than gel that you have been wearing for three or four weeks.
Just How Long Does It Take?
Doug Schoon teaches that the manufacturers recommended acetone soaking time is the minimum—not the maximum.
So if they suggest 10 minutes, and then instruct you to wipe off the gel with firm finger pressure only.
If the gel isn’t completely dissolved then you should rewrap your nail and let it soak longer. This means that it can actually take 20, 30, or even 40 minutes to dissolve the gel properly! The gel must completely wipe off with firm finger pressure.
The Education Gap
We have a big problem being created in the professional salon industry.
The Bad News? About 80% of nail professionals are not learning proper application and removal techniques.
The Good News? 20% are fully educated and doing it right!
Here’s the big problem . . .
Nail professionals who are untrained with the gel technology are mixing and matching UV curing lamps with different brands of gels. According to Doug this is a huge mistake.
If you’re using a CND Shellac gel then you should be using the lamp created by CND.
If you’re using Gelish by Hand and Nail Harmony, then you should be using the Gelish curing lamp.
The products and curing lamps are formulated to work together—there is no such thing as a universal curing lamp.
Why I Don’t Wear Gel Nail Polish Anymore
Continuing on from that mini lesson . . . I then cut my nails short, and started applying oil for three days following my own instructions for the 3 Day Hydration Technique. After that, I continued with normal polish manicures.
At the same time, I also deduced that water absorption from the underside of the nail plate will soak through and break a polish or gel bond. (I’m sure Doug could have told me that in 2010….but he’s a busy guy.)
I started wrapping base coat and top coat to the underside of my tips. I always use two coats of ridge filling base coat, two coats of color, and one layer of top coat.
As my nails were growing out, I realized that I was essentially creating 8 coats of polish wrapped around my tips.
For me, the nail polish was giving me the same amount of temporary strength as the gel. And Pure Nail Oil™ was keeping my nails strong and flexible so they didn’t snap when I banged them into something.
I also discovered that since I was completely sealing off my nails from water absorption, my manicures lasted 7 to 10 days before they even started chipping. This was the exact same effect I was getting previously with a gel overlay. The Fab 5 Polish Wrap Technique had been created.
In Conclusion
Like Doug, I think soak-off-gels are an amazing product that can revolutionize the salon industry, but only if they’re removed properly.
They’re a great solution for so many busy people who just want a beautiful, chip free manicure for two weeks.
Soak-Off-Gels are not a good solution for people who like to change their manicures every few days.
If I were going to a salon to get a gel manicure, I would go in two hours before my appointment so there was plenty of time to completely dissolve the gel. You want it slide off with firm finger pressure (no tools!) against the cotton.
I’d then go to the closest coffee shop, grab something warm and delicious, read a magazine, and wait for an hour before the new gel is applied.
A conscientious nail professional will work with your wishes. And if she doesn’t, send her to this article.
I love that I can change my manicures without the added time commitment of gel. That’s my choice.
Hopefully I’ve given you enough information so you can make the best choice for you.
Another great article! I always suspected there was something I didn’t like about gel manicures…and you just explained what it is better than I could! For one thing, I change my mani every day…so that’s obviously a problem for gels…but I’m worried about things that are supposed to last too long! LOL! Thanks for writing this!
Thanks so much for stopping by Anne!!! I’m glad it helps offer some clarity. It can also be a great resource to offer to friends if they’re unsure if gels are for them. ~Ana
Thank you for writing this! Now I know I should just get a regular manicure with 2 layers of a base coat, 2 color layers, and 1 top coat, not a gel manni for senior prom! Thank you for helping me not damage my nails and educating me on the proper removal of gel coats ^_^
This article completely changed my thoughts of nail care! I had no idea about water and gels being so damaging to nails. I am definitely going to be far more conscientious about how I treat my nails from now on. Thank you!
Corie, thank you for stopping by! I just need to clarify, the gels are not damaging to nails. It’s the improper removal that is damaging. And similarly, acrylics do not damage nails. It’s the unnecessary, excessive filing of the nail plate before applying them that is so damaging. ~Ana
Great article! I use DIY gel kits (SensatioNail & Fuse by SensatioNail) at home and my nails always look awful after removal. Now I know where I’ve been going wrong.
This is the brand I use and if you see my comment below if you follow these tips from Ana you will get the most out of your polishes and get the best nail care. I only ever used gels to keep my nails from breaking but now I can wear realise polish as bliss kiss has made my nails strong and healthy.
I’ve stopped using gel polish since I’ve had skin reactions to it, if a microscopic drop went on my skin it would itch like crazy and I’d end up using steriod cream to stop the itching. However, I’ve ended up with those false white spots that are shown on your picture, will those grow out? I haven’t used gel polish since last fall but my nails still have those white spots and it looks horrible. I’ve ordered the Bliss Kiss starter kit, will that help them go away?
Yes, those will grow out. Pure Nail Oil™ won’t fix them, but it will make them look less prominent. I would also recommend a tinted ridge filling basecoat, like Bliss Kiss™ Simply Smooth™. It will also help cover up the white spots, so they aren’t so prominent. Hope that helps’ ~Ana
Ana, this is great and something which I will refer all my gel nail friends to. I’m not a professional and have never been trained in gel application/removal. I started gels in June last year as it was the only way I could grow my nails and keep them from breaking. Like yourself, mine are thin and weak. I had great success until the end of the year when my nails started breaking and my nail beds became so thin they were sore and red. I took on your 3 day challenge with Bliss Kiss and it totally changed my way of thinking when it came to nail care and how I treat my nails in general. As you have seen from my photos on Instagram it has worked wonders and I will never use anything else. I apply every day and now only use gel every month or so. I was changing my gels so regularly, and in all honesty, was removing them with the scraping as mentioned above. Now I let it come off in the cotton with minimal to no scraping and followed your advice on keeping them oiled/moisturised when using acetone and the condition of my nails and skin is amazing! You truly are the best in your field and I thank you for all the excellent advice and tips you have given me!
Hello Ana,
I have recently been introduced to your product and I have yet to purchase it but after reading all of your articles, I am more inclined than ever to start taking care of my natural nails. I am a compulsive nail biter and hangnail biter. I started using Duri Rejuvacote about a month ago and since then I have been able to grow my natural nails out fairly well. My concern are the ingredients in Rejuvacote being so harmful to me.
First, I wanted to know your input on that product.
Second, if I start using Bliss Kiss, after the initial hydration treatment, can you use SOG and still apply Bliss Kiss to your cuticles? Would it still be just as effective, or not so much?
I love painting my nails, but I don’t have time to change them every few days and sometimes I can only change my mani even once a week. I think SOG would be best for me, but only if Bliss Kiss would still penetrate through the gel itself.
I would really love your input since I am really new to this whole community.
Thank you in advance, your website has already been so informative on its own!
I read this because I saw it mentioned on happilyeverose Instagram- my question is more about the oil application, I use the oil before I apply polish, should I be applying it before and while I’m wearing nail polish?
After the initial 3 day hydration, you should continue to oil at least twice a day.
https://www.nailcarehq.com/products/pure-nail-oil/anas-3-day-hydration-treatment/
Adrienne
Assistant to Ana
I thought i would try gel nails as my nails have been splitting due to a lot of Aqua and being in the water. But i am sorry now i had them as i can’t leave them alone and start to pick at them.. Doing more damage, so i have decided to just have nail varnish on them. So thanks for your helpful advice..
*love
So basically what you are saying is that unless you are prepared to soak of the gels for a much longer period of time the manufacturers want you to know, that you shouldn’t wear gels?
So its not the gels that do damage, its actually the removal of them?
Julie, that is correct. If the acetone is not given enough time to completely dissolve the gel, then scraping off the last little bits will damage the nail plate.
Ana, thank you for all this information. I came here looking for a polish method that does not include filing the nail beds — which the salons around here do before applying the gel polishes. I should be refusing the nail bed filing, right? What do you think about doing the removal at home before going to the salon? Will you please, if able, recommend an effective product and process for home removal of the gel polish?
Hello!
Ana has a great article regarding removal of gel polish.
https://www.nailcarehq.com/remove-gel-nails-without-damage/
Thanks!
Adrienne
Assistant to Ana
I’d like to point out that leaving a soak off gel on longer than the recommended 2 weeks will cause it to become harder to soak off.
“UV gel manicures are safe, useful salon services that require proper application, maintenance, and careful removal,” says Doug Schoon, president of Schoon Scientific and co-chair of the Nail Manufacturers Council on Safety. “Clients should not be allowed to extend wearing time beyond what is recommended, e.g. two weeks. This type of nail coating typically becomes more difficult to remove the longer it remains on the nail, reaching peak removal difficulty after about four weeks. Improper curing by using an incorrect nail lamp can also make UV nail coatings more difficult to remove.”
I have damaged nails due to improper gel polish removal. My nails are peeling. I have never had this problem before. This damage began in September 2015 and continues (it is now February 2016). I keep trimming my nails to try to get past the peeling area but it just keeps peeling back into the nail. What can I do to repair my nails and get the peeling area to grow out so that healthy nail is left?
Here’s some articles that Ana has written that may help you:
https://www.nailcarehq.com/polish-prevent-peeling-nails/
https://www.nailcarehq.com/peeling-nails-marie-claire/
https://www.nailcarehq.com/peeling-nails/